Articles about Poodles

Article links about Poodles, and more...

Here will also be links to poodle articles, please contact me, if you find interesting links...

Article links about Poodles, updated 26-07-2024

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Genetics in poodles links (kommer...)

Colour genetics in poodle link NEW ! 30-10-21

Colour chart link NEW ! 30-10-21

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About the importance to read and understand pedigrees (kommer...)

Reading Pedigrees Loud & Clear, Pedigrees are a tapestry that defines the dog before you.

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Bulldog spirit, but Churchill was a softie when it came to his poodle: How former PM couldn't bear prospect of losing his beloved pet dog Rufus II
Bulldog spirit, but Churchill was a softie when it came to his poodle: How former PM couldn't bear prospect of losing his beloved pet dog Rufus II Read more HERE (kommer)

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16 new colors from 1. august 2024 (FCI) NEW ! 26-07-24

Color Genes in Poodles

Colour breeding in poodles

Poodle History Project

Standard Poodle Articles

The "Extended" Wycliffe Kennel

in the Pacific Northwest, interesting article to read HERE (kommer)

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Surprising news about dogs and garlic – what you need to know . This article is found HERE

There is a lot of controversy surrounding dogs and garlic on the Internet. Many sources believe that garlic is toxic to dogs and it should never be used in dog food. But garlic has been used for centuries as a medicinal aid by humans – is it true that it's bad canines? The answer may not seem all that cut and dry, but it's becoming a lot clearer. This is thanks to the research efforts of experts that say that garlic is actually good for dogs. Of course, you can't just let your dog chew on a clove of garlic. It's all about the amount you give your dog. Read on to learn more about garlic and dogs, and how to make it a part of your pup's healthy diet.

Garlic has been used for centuries as a medicinal aid by humans – is it true that its bad for canines?

Garlic: A Family Tree

Garlic comes from the Allium family, and counts onions, leeks, chives, and shallots as relatives. Onions, and to a much lesser degree garlic, contains a compound called n-propyldisulfide, as well as small amounts of thiosulphate. When taken in large amounts, oxidative damage can occur in the red blood cells. The effect creates Heinz bodies and the body will reject these cells from the bloodstream. After ingesting large amounts over a long period of time, it can lead to anemia and even death. So does this mean that garlic is unsafe for dogs? That's where the debate gets heated.

History

It all started over 100 years ago, when wild onions (in the same family of garlic) were fed to cattle, sheep, and horses and these animals showed toxicity symptoms. In the 1930s, studies showed that dogs that ate onions showed toxicity symptoms. Fast forward to the 1980s: cats that ate onions exhibited the same toxicity symptoms as dogs did. It's important to note that cats are six to eight times more sensitive to onion than dogs.

Garlic got a bad rap in 2000, when a research paper was published that was based on garlic's effect on dogs. Even though the dogs tested didn't show any outward appearance of toxicity symptoms, there was an effect on the red blood cells. The researchers stated: "we believe that foods containing garlic should be avoided for use in dogs." This study, which was undertaken at Hokkaido University, was conducted on four dogs, each one given 1.25 ml of garlic extract per kg of body weight for seven straight days. As an example, if the dog weighed 40 pounds, it would be given about 20 cloves of garlic – a staggering amount! Using this amount of garlic, the study concluded that garlic had the "potential" to cause hemolytic anemia (damage to the red blood cells), and so garlic should not be fed to dogs. It's important to note that even at these highly elevated doses, no dogs on the study developed hemolytic anemia.

It's All About Dosage

Too much of anything is bad for you. Even minerals that you assume make you and your dog healthy can be detrimental in large daily amounts. Things such as salt, vitamin D, or Zinc are all good for you… as long as you're not overdoing it. The same goes with garlic and dogs. At some level, these things all have the potential to be toxic.

Here's a guide on the garlic levels safe for dogs per day, based on a dog's weight (1/2 clove per ten pounds of body weight):

Fresh Garlic (from The Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Dr. Pitcairn)

10 to 15 pounds: .5 clove

20 to 40 pounds: 1 clove

45 to 70 pounds: 2 cloves

75 to 90 pounds: 2.5 cloves

100 pounds +: 3 cloves

Many people choose to stop at the 2 clove mark, even if their dogs were large (75 pounds+). I believe in going with a smaller dose myself and choose fresh over powder or jarred when possible. Also, I rotate my garlic cycle – 1 week on, 1 week off. Some pet parents only use it seasonally, while others feed it every day.

Of course, if your dog has a pre-existing anemic condition or is set to go into surgery, don't give him any garlic. As well, puppies from six to eight weeks of age don't start to reproduce new blood cells until after 6-8 weeks, so they should not be fed any garlic.

Benefits Of Feeding Your Dog Garlic

The reason why garlic is added to dog food and treats is because it has many health benefits. Even if you're not sure about dogs and garlic, and decide to start with a low amount, your dog will still reap the health rewards. Its main claim to fame is the benefit it has on a dog's digestive tract. But there are lots of other wonderful health reasons why garlic can help your dog:
Tick/Flea Repellent: It won't kill the fleas and ticks, but those little buggers don't like the taste of it. One sniff and they'll be making their way off your dog.
Immune System Boost: Garlic has proven to do wonders with dogs with suppressed immune systems and as well has those fighting cancer. It gives a boost to bloodstream cells that kill bad microbes and cancer cells. (Check out S. Messonnier, The Natural Vet's Guide to Preventing and Treating Cancer in Dogs, who talks about the benefits of garlic to fight cancer in dogs).
Liver Boost: Garlic is known to have detoxifying effects, which can help the liver get rid of toxins from the body.
Fights Bacterial, Viral, and Fungal Infections: Bacteria, virus and fungi are no match for garlic! With its potent antimicrobial and antibiotic properties, it fights parasites and protozoan organisms as well.
Lowers Blood Cholesterol and Triglyceride: Mix the proper dose of uncooked garlic with your dog's food and it can help lower blood cholesterol and triglyceride levels.
Cardiovascular Boost: Wonderful in older and overweight dogs, garlic can prevent blood clots, and reduce cholesterol levels and fat build up in the arteries.

I Think Garlic is Good!

I feed Oscar garlic and supplement it into his diet throughout the week. As pet parents, we need to remember that there is no "normal" consumption level – based on my dog's weight, I feed my dog safe and beneficial levels of garlic. As with any change in diet or addition of supplement, please speak with your vet. My vet knows about the garlic in Oscar's diet, and we have blood taken every year to ensure he's in peak form.

We'd like to hear from you. Do you feed your dog any garlic, whether it's in food, treats or supplements? Or do you stay away from it, as it's "better to be safe than sorry"? We want to hear from both camps. Leave your thoughts in the comments section below.

DNA test for HD

Great new from USA

Cornell University has identified the first panel of genetic markers for hip dysplasia in a number of breeds. They hope to have a DNA test available within the near future, similar to that of Optigen where blood can be taken and checked to determine whether a dog is genetically free, a carrier, or will be affected with hip dysplasia.

So far they are working with Rottweilers, German Sheperds, Border Collies, Great Danes, Labradors, Golden Retrievers and Newfoundlands

Given the results they have obtained to date, they are very hopeful that they will soon be able to come up with a test for all breeds.

source: Poodles in Scandinavia

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Article about SA

Source; standardpoodleclub.com, or look below:

Animal Health Trust

Lay Summary of Progress Report To Determine Genomic Region Associated with Sebaceous Adenitis in the Standard Poodle. Sebaceous Adenitis (SA) is a dermatological condition that has been described in several breeds of dog, most commonly in the Standard Poodle. It is a condition in which the sebaceous glands in the skin become inflamed and are eventually destroyed, leading to hair loss and secondary skin infections, and is a significant health and welfare problem. The Animal Health Trust has collected DNA samples from over 300 Standard Poodles.

Using the latest genotyping techniques, (a Canine SNP(single nucleotide polymorphism) array of 22,362 genome-wide SNPs) we have genotyped a subset of 48 samples from dogs with a rigorous SA diagnosis, which included 20 affected dogs and 28 unaffected dogs.

We have been helped enormously by the Standard Poodle Club UK in this choice of samples. Using this data, we have carried out careful computer analysis to try to identify the region in which the SA mutation lies. The preparation of the DNA samples and their genotyping have been achieved successfully. All 48 samples were genetyped, although 4 fell below rigorous acceptability standards and were not included in the analysis.

The vast majority of the 22,362 SNPs on the array (over99.7%) worked well this is a very impressive result. The data was analysed using pedigree-based linkage software and association-based software.The analyses were carried out successfully: we know this because using identical methods on other diseases and breeds, we have been able to identify genome locations linked to the diseases.

However for the Standard Poodle samples both types of analysis failed to identify any regions of the genome which were significantly associated with the disease. We are confident that the genotyping data we generated was of a very high quality, so the likely explanation of our failure to identify a region of the genome associated with SA is because the disease is complex, and is either caused by more than one gene, or the interaction between gene(s) and the enviroment. Alternatively, our controls included a number of subclinically affected dogs whose skin biopsy results lead us to mis-categorise them. In either case, the solution is to collect and genotype more samples, and any new data can be added to what we already have, thus increasing the chances of succe

This is a disappointing result, but as a result of this investigation we now can say fairly confidently that sebaceous adenitis in the Standard Poodle is not inherited as a simple autosomal recessive with a high degree of penetrance, and that more samples need to be analysed to identify a genomic region associated with the disease

We are committed to continuing our study of SA in the Standard Poodle and will continue to collect and store samples to successfully analyse SA as a complex trait.

Data generated during the current study will be saved, and added to additional data generated in this subsequent phase of the study.

Co-Principal Investigators: Cathryn S Mellersh and Mike Boursnell., Animal Health Trust, Newmarket

Litt av hvert ;) This and That in Norwegian and English

Strikk en genser til din dverg/toy puddel. Eller bestill fra Jennyrose kennel :)

Riktig og gal måte å bruke DNA tester på, HER.

Hvordan ta rcd-4 testen

Du går inn på Wisdompanel, og det er viktig at du leser alt om rcd-4 testen. Du ser at den finnes kun for mellompuddel,
så derfor må du bestille testen som mellom, selv om du har de andre størrelsesvariantene. Du kan fylle ut og betale på nettet,
eller du kan skrive ut testen og fylle i alt, ta med til vet , dette skal ligge ved prøva sammen med visa kortinformasjon,
om du foretrekker det. Jeg har gjort begge deler, og foretrekker å betale på nett. Husk bare på å skrive ut all info når du blir bedt
om det. Du får et referansenummer som skal ligge ved prøva når den blir sendt. Husk på å skrive ut i tre eksemplarer du skal ha ett selv
og til tolldeklareringen. Skal stemples og fylles i av veterinær. Ett eksemplar utenpå konvolutten for tollen.
Strengt med hva som går gjennom toll i USA. Det finnes å få slike konvolutter med plastvindu og med lim til å klistre utenpå pakka
på post i butikk. Husk på å skrive ut den info om hvordan prøven skal tas og pakkes og la veterinæren få lese.
Det skal brukes spesielle prøveglass. Viktig er å lese nøye gjennom Optigen sidene og bruke litt tid på det. Lykke til.

This and That about poodles.

Litt om mat og drikke, tidligstimulering av valper, vekstkart osv..

Vidunderdrikk for lettere fødsel

Guro ringte meg ang. hønsekraft. Og har du ikke prøvd det før, så blir du nok overrasket.

Du kan lage dette i god tid, måle det opp i 1liters poser og fryse det.

Vær bare oppmerksom på at du ikke gir det utblandet før den første valpen er kommet, - dette for at det

visstnok er en mild form for påvirkning av livmoren, og dermed en form for vesprøyte. Da kan vi visst påvirke blokkingen.

Men kraft uten druesukker og kalk, og dessuten kjøtt er flott både før under og etter en hard økt.

Mange gir jo en gang ikke vann. Og en kan tenke med seg selv. Ja, ja.

Her kommer vidunderdrikken: Kraft som kan gis tispa når hun føder:

1 stor høne kokes i 5 liter vann i 5timer. Krafta siles og høna renskes, og evtl fryses i passende porsjoner.

Til 5 liter skal det tilsettes 10 toppede ss. druesukker og 2ss beinmel. Tilsettingen gjøres når tispa skal ha det,

- det skal ikke fryses ned. Til 1 liter kraft 2ss. druesukker og 0,4 med beinmel. Krafta taes opp, tines og blandes

med druesukker og beinmel. Fettlokket skal fryses med, og blir da blandet i krafta igjen da den tiner. Gis ikke før første valp har kommet.

De siste 5-6 døgn før fødsel gir jeg tispa 1 ts.beinmel, 1 ts. ølgjær og 1 ts. olje i maten. Jeg gir også litt

geitemelk ca. 1 uke før fødselen. Hvorfor vet jeg ikke, men det er gamle kjerringråd, og jeg er jo en gammel

kjerring, og tror på slikt. Jeg kan jo tenke meg at det styrker, samtidig som kalken forebygger jurbetennelse,

kanskje. Tispene mine har iallfall ikke hatt noe i mot det. Oppskrift på valpemelk, tillegsmelk, har du kanskje,

men jeg sender den og jeg. Lille Petite er jo flasket opp på det. 2dl. kaffefløte 8dl. helmelk

1 eggeplomme 1ts. tran. Varmes til kokepunktet i vannbad. Håper det går bra med dere. - lykke til.

05. june 2002
I found this article to day...

Early Socialization of Puppies (2 to 16 weeks)

In the process of writing a research paper on the effects of early
socialization on puppies (between 2-16 weeks), I found 1,234 references on
the Google search engine alone.
I thought that some of the readers on this list might find some of these
references interesting. Here is a very small sample of of the
references I found during my literature search:

"I suggest that you start handling the puppies as much as possible from 2-3
weeks onwards" "The more puppies are handled by different people and
children, the better their ability to cope with everyday events in stable
manner when they are older" " The more puppies are handled, the more
situations they face, the better their temperament on the whole" Dr Karen
Hedberg, DVM, The New Dog Owners Manual, Watermark Press, Sydney Australia,
2nd Edition, 1996, chapter 10 page 109 & chapter 6 page 101)

"The most important period for socializing dogs is between 3 and 12 weeks of
age" Dr John Scott and Dr John Fuller, 1965, Dog Behavior, The Genetic
Basics, University of Chicago Press, as quoted by David Weston, in Dog
Training, the Gentle Modern Method, Chapter 3, page 18, Hyland House
Publishing, 1990, Melbourne Australia

"Perhaps he most significant tests of all are those carried out in 1961 by
Freedman, King and Elliot, ....the results show that if puppies are
introduced to humans ..between 3-5 weeks they will approach confidently but
those that are not introduced until between 5 and seven weeks will show
increasing amounts of apprehension", Association of Pet Behavior
Counselors, Puppy Socialization and Habituation (Part 1), Why is it
Necessary? By David Appleby, https://www.apbc.org.uk/ARTICLES.HTM

"Socialization studies confirm that the critical periods for humans
(infants), are generally between 3 weeks and 12 months. "For canines, the
period is shorter, between the 4th and 16th weeks of age".Early Neurological
Stimulation by Dr. Carmen L Battaglia, Roswell Georgia, The siberian
quarterly, Summer, 1997, page 86

07.February 2001 Raspberry for easier delivery of puppies:

This is what I found at PSG today.
I've used raspberry leaves for every litter I've bred. It's so simple. I mix
a generous pinch (roughly a half teaspoon for a mini, probably double that
for a standard) in with the bitch's food once a day. This is started after
she's back from being bred. Raspberry leaves are supposed to help make
delivery easier and also help the bitch's system return to normal easier.
My minis usually deliver all their babies within 2 hours, although there
have been two times when a full litter was delivered in approximately 30
minutes. That was when I wished I'd had a catcher's mitt handy! I don't
know if this ease in whelping has been due to the raspberry leaves or not,
because I've always given it. Tincture or tea would probably be just as
good.

You can easily prepare your own raspberry leaves rather than buying them at
a health food store. There's a large patch of unsprayed, wild raspberries
growing along our property fence. Every summer I snip off a shopping bag
full of clean leaves. These are dried in a food dehydrator, but they can
just as easily be spread out on cookie sheets and dried in the sun. When
thoroughly dry, just crumble and store in a jar.

Raspberry leaves improve the muscle tone of the uterus and increase the
strength of contractions, making for a faster, easier labor. I have seen Dane
bitches, who can take a whole day to whelp, pop out a huge litter in a
quarter of their usual time.

As with any other drug, one must be careful. Raspberry leaf tea is often
suggested in old herbals "to treat menstrual irregularity." That's a discreet
way of saying it will terminate a pregnancy, so it is important not to dose
too heavily and cause abortion.

Tuna Fish Treats

Here's the receipe. I can't take credit for it. A friend gave the
receipe to me when my puppy went nuts over it at training class! ;)

2 cans of tuna in water (not oil)
2 eggs
healthy spoonful of garlic powder
1 1/2 cups flour

mix all stuff together - will be an ugly horrible mess -- add as much
flour as needed to make it form a ball of dough

spread 1/4" thick on a cookie sheet or jelly roll pan

Bake 250 for 30-40 minutes

cut into little cubes..refrigerate or freeze (I freeze mine and leave it
in the freezer and grab it when I need it)

Enjoy!

08.december 2000
Food for a sick poodle
Here is the formula: 1/2 bottle of pedialite
1 can fo evoprated milk
4 egg yolks
4 TBS of Karo Syrup
4 TBS of Mayo
1 8 oz Lowfat yogurt
1 packet of Knox gelatin
Mix the pedialite & knox gelatin together in a sauce pan. Warm up enough
to dissolve the gelatin. Might need to use a small hand blender.
In a separate container mix all other ingredients & blend well.
After allowing the Pedialite mixture to cool, combine the with milk
mixture.
Again blend very well. Blending well is stressed well for tube
feeding,bottle feeding etc so the lumps will not plug them up.
Refrigerate & warm up as needed & can be used for appoximately 2 weeks. It
has a custard consistancy. Warming liquify's this.

This is good to use on newborns,orphans,sick or weak animals.
I added to mine mushed up can food and baby rice cereal & used a syringe to
feed her.
(from Poodle Support Group)

27. october 2000
I found this today:
Poodle Food Recipes : https://www.execpc.com/~diamondd/recipes.html

04. september 2000
Early Neurological Stimulation (Bio Sensor or Super Dog)

For those interested in early stimulation of puppies, the stimulation is done from day 3 to day 16.

Each puppy is handled separately and all five exercises are performed in any
order. All five exercises are done on each puppy from beginning to end
before going on to the next pup.

1. Tactile stimulation- holding pup in one hand, stimulate (gently) the pup
between the toes using a Q-tip. One may not see a "tickle" response from the
pup, this is fine. Stimulate in this manner 3-5 seconds.

2. Head held erect- using both hands hold the pup perpendicular to the
ground. Pup's head is directly above the tail in an upward position. Time
3-5 seconds. (Many of us already do this when we peak at those cute little
faces, but you must do this in the series of 5 exercises)

3. Head pointed down- holding pup in both hands the head is pointed downward
toward the ground. Opposite of above exercise. Time 3-5 seconds.

4. Supine position- hold pup so its back is resting on the palm of both
hands with it's face toward the ceiling. While on it's back the pup may do
anything from sleep to struggle. Time 3-5 seconds.

5. Thermal stimulation- use a damp towel that has been cooled in the Fridge
for 5 minutes. Place pup, feet down on the towel. Do not restrain pup from
moving. Time 3-5 seconds.

DO NOT repeat these exercises more than once daily. DO NOT extend the time
periods of stimulation. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have
adverse and detrimental results.

Benefits of stimulation's are:
1. improved cardio vascular performance
2. stronger heartbeats
3. stronger adrenal glands
4. more tolerance to stress
5. greater resistance to disease

In learning tests of stimulated puppies, pups were found to be more active
and explored more than non-stimulated pups. Stimulated pups became less
upset, made fewer errors, and were more calm.

(info taken from article in the Keeshound Review Sping 1993- titled Early
Neurological Stimulation by Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia)

Early neurological stimulation in combination with early socialization can
produce beneficial results. I also stimulate sense of smell, hearing, etc.,
in my pups. It has been my experience with the above mentioned schedule and
good genetics, well rounded puppies result. These dogs adapt well to all
situations, seldom show fear/flight, and are a joy to train and live with.

14. July 2000
About final size of miniatures:
(1 inch = 2,54cm.)

CHARLES ARNOLD'S CHART

8 wks 8 to 8.5 inches
3 months 10 to 10.5
4 months 11 to 11.5
6 months 13.5 to 14

About final size of toys:
This is a toy chart for 10 inches, (1 inch = 2,54cm.)

5 weeks - 5 inches
8 - weeks - 6 inches
3 months - 7 inches
4 months - 8 inches
6 months - 9 inches ( Some can be a little larger at 6 months and still stay in.)

The larger they are the more they grow after 6 months. They pretty much finish growing when
all of the teeth are in. Males grow longer.

Europeian sizes, 4 variants:

The poodles in all the FCI-countries come in 4 sizes.
The toys up to 28cm. 11inches.
The dwarfs from 28 to 35 cm.That is 11 to 13.7 inches.
The mini's.35 to 45 cm. that is 13.7 to 17.7 inches.
The standards from 17.7 to 24 inches.SP over 24.7 inches will be
disqualified.
Only very nice standards that are over 24 inches will be awarded
'excellent'at the shows.

15. July 2000,

I have some recipes for:
poodles that won't eat kibble, or are too skinny:
recipe 1:

2 LBS. 30% fat ground beef
5 egg yolks (NO whites)
1/2-3/4 Cup Dark Molasses
1/2 Cup Old Fashioned OATS (oatmeal)
1/4 Cup Wheat Germ

Mix all ingredients well and roll into balls. For toys, probably about 1
inch in diameter. Use one little ball mixed into regular nighttime
dinner per dog that needs *boosted*.

Thankfully, this stuff freezes well. (Do be sure that it is already in
individual sized balls......easier to take out for feeding.) Never keep
more than 2 days worth in fridge as it spoils quickly. Can't have sick
babies!! Or, take out of freezer, defrost in micro about 45 seconds or
so. They like it warm, too.

recipe 2:

3 egg yolks
1/3 rd jar molasses
3 lb. of good grade hamburger
1/3 rd bottle Mazola oil
6 oz. Peanut Butter (optional, if dog likes)
MIX By Hand
ADD:
1 box Total Cereal (crush in it's own bag)
1 box Grape nut Cereal
1/2 box Oatmeal
1/3 rd jar Wheat germ
3 envelopes Unflavored Gelatin
For a Stand. Poodle, make tennis ball size balls, and put 3 to a bag.
Freeze. Thaw 1 bag a day to feed.
Not all dogs like peanut butter, so experiment with a small amount
before using in the whole mix.

recipe 3:

Satin Balls in Norwegian:Satin Balls, in English,look under the Norwegian receipe.

Porsjonen er noe mindre enn den Engelske versjonen.
1/2 kg. kjøttdeig
1 egg (uten hvite)
1 pl. gelatin løses opp i 1 dl. varmt vann
1 ss.mørk sirup
1/2 kopp hvetemel
1/2 kopp 4-korn mel (males)
1/2 kopp havregryn
1/2 kopp hvetekim
1/2 kopp olivenolje

Blandes godt og rulles til passende porsjoner. Porsjonen er nok til dagsporsjon for 4-5
mellompudler. Istedet for hvetemel og 4-korn mel, kan en bruke Møllerens kornbrødbakst, det
inneholder hvetemel, sammalt rug, sammalt hvete, vegetabilsk fett, linfrø, solsikkefrø, havregryn,
sesamfrø, bokhvete, sukker og salt. Bland i til det blir en fast deig.
Holdbar i kjøleskap 2 dager. Flott å fryse i porsjoner. Se ellers det som står skrevet om bruk av
Satin Balls, i den Engelske versjonen.

Satin Balls in English:
The following recipe was sent to Wellpet by Diana Carreon, R.N.,C.
It quickly became one of the most requested posts on Wellpet.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ingredients
10 pounds hamburger meat [the cheapest kind]
1 lg. box of Total cereal [or comparable natural brand]
1 lg. box oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ
1 1/4 cup veg oil
1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses
10 raw eggs
10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin
pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a metalloid.

Divide into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.

Thaw as needed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

USE
I take a frozen pack to dogs shows with me, kept on ice, and never have had any trouble with it spoiling, even in the heat of Texas summers...All my dogs go crazy over this stuff...but you have to be careful, it will put wt on the dogs pretty fast if you feed enough....I feed a pack a day...half in am , half in PM.

When I want to increase the weight on a dog, I feed more; so far I haven't got to the point where they won't eat anymore, and believe me, Satin has eaten a lot at one setting. It will put on the weight, make the coats soft and blue black (on black dogs at least, that's all I have).

The dogs stop all the itching and chewing at their coats/skin, their eyes get this bright look and the energy level goes out the roof(not that Belgians need any more energy).

The bitch that I got this recipe for is a picky eater, but when this in on the food(I long ago stopped trying to "bury" it the other food; they just hunt it down to eat first, and making a mess trying) she eats much better. It seems to whet her appetite.

Comments
Per the information received after having the Satin Balls recipe checked by several vets/labs:

Satin Balls is a total canine diet. It can be feed by itself or as a supplement, for however long you wish. My dogs have been on Satin Balls for over a year; the only time that I have fed it alone is when I had a sick dog needing to be built

up or an underweight dog that I plan on showing.

The only problem with feeding it by itself is figuring out the amount. It will put weight on a dog in a few days...

that's why it is so great to feed just before a show. If you have a dog that is in good weight, but you just want to build coat/endurance, you would have to figure out how much to feed (cal per kg), or you would end up with a fat dog

in a very short time. At one point, I let Satin eat as much as she wanted, just to see how much she would consume.

I never got to that point! After a pound pack, she was still looking for more, so I stopped. I have been told a dog will

stop eating when full on it, and that you can then gauge the amount needed to maintain weight!

I just fine that per the pocketbook and ease, my dogs do very well on it as a supplement. I give about a 1/4 pound

each night to maintain beautiful coats, energy level, and a full appetite...no picky eaters here.

Just don't try to hide it in the kibble...they will make a mess throwing out the kibble, digging for the Satin Balls!

My dogs have never gotten sick on Satin balls...not even when I am at a show and feed only that. I feed less kibble,

so I saves money there. There is also less stool to pick up as the dogs are able to digest all of the Satin Balls.

I have been playing with the recipe. I now use the Knox Joint Gelatin instead of the plain Knox unflavored gelatin.

Since this is high in vit C and protein, and is good for the joints, it would be good for the dogs. They don't seem to

mind the added flavor.

I am also adding Flaxseed oil. They probably don't need the added oil, but so far I have not seen it hurt anything.

Fix some up and let your dogs enjoy. They will love you forever and forever!

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16. July 2000. A recipe of dog snacks, if I can find the American recipe again, it will also later
be written in English. Here it is in Norwegian, don't let the dog get too much, they love it... (use just as snacks)

HUNDEKJEKS
1/2 kg. okselever (males og settes til side)
I en stor bolle, mix:
2 kopper hvete-helkorn
2 kopper maismel
2 kopper havregryn
1 kopp hvetekim
1/2 kopp havrekli
1/2 kopp hvetekli (kruska)
2 ts. hvitløkspulver (hvitløk er ikke bra for hund, men hvitløkspulver i så små mengder er ikke farlig, dessuten kan det holde flåtten unna)

Mixes godt sammen, og tilsett:
1/2 kopp soyaolje, eller annen planteolje + lever + vann, så det blir tyktflytende som kakedeig.
Smør en langpanne m. olje, og stek i 180 grader 30- 40minutter. (Det lønner seg å ha bakepapir i
pannen). Kjøl det av, og kutt i små "kaker".

God apetitt !

ZUCCHINI BREAD

3 cups grated Zucchini
1 cup oil (salad)
1 1/2 cups sugar
3 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
Combine all of the above

3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (if you really like cinnamon add a little more)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ginger (optional)
Sift together, add to above ingredients

1 cup chopped nuts (optional)
1 cup raisins (optional)
Add and beat 4 minutes, place in greased loaf pan and back 1 hour or
until toothpick comes out fairly clean @ 350 degrees.

This recipe freezes well, also grated zucchini freezes well! To keep
the color when freezing cut a lemon in half and squeeze some lemon juice on
the grated zucchini before freezing.

Thought you all might like this. For those unsure about bread with
Zucchini in it, it honestly doesn't taste like Zucchini. Our dogs love it,
and as I have two HUGE zucchini plants that give me over foot long
Zucchini's it's a good way to use it up. The above recipe only makes one
loaf, it's deceiving. I usually 3 or 4x this recipe... if I can find a big
enough bowl. One year I used the turkey roasting pan and made 6! They
freeze really well.
This recipe is from: hummingbirds1@home.com

POODLE DONUTS
4 cups whole wheat flour
2 eggs
1 1/3 cup chicken or beef broth
4 tablespoons oatmeal (uncooked)
3 tsp. garlic powder

Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Beat eggs and broth together, and
stir into dry ingredients. Form into a smooth ball of dough and roll to
1/2 inch thick. Cut with a donut cutter and arrange in a circle on a
microwave safe plate. Microwave on High about eight minutes, rotating
and turning over after four minutes. (If using a turntable, just turn
them over.) Ovens vary so you may need to experiment with the time.
Donuts should be firm with a slightly rubbery feel. Cool on a wire rack
until very hard. Makes about two dozen.

17. July 2000
This story I got from USA:

It was a slow day in Heaven, so God phones Satan to see what was going on down here.
"It's a slow day here, too," Satan said.
"Well," God said, "I think a Poodle show might be fun."
"Sounds good," said Satan, "but why are you calling me? You've got all the Poodles up there"
" I know," answered God, "but you've got all the judges."

HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH A PUPPY: ( before we got android and i-phone )

1. Remove film from box and load camera.
2. Remove film box from puppy's mouth and throw in trash.
3. Remove puppy from trash and brush coffee grounds from muzzle.
4. Choose a suitable background for photo.
5. Mount camera on tripod and focus.
6. Find puppy and take dirty sock from mouth.
7. Place puppy in pre-focused spot and return to camera.
8. Forget about spot and crawl after puppy on knees.
9. Focus with one hand while fending off puppy with other hand.
10. Get tissue and clean nose prints from lens.
11. Take flash cube from puppy's mouth and throw in trash.
12. Put cat outside and put peroxide on the scratch on puppy's nose.
13. Put magazines back on coffee table.
14. Try to get puppy's attention by squeaking toy over your head.
15. Replace your glasses and check camera for damage.
16. Jump up in time to grab puppy by scruff of neck and say, "No,
Outside!"
17. Call spouse to clean up mess.
18. Fix a drink.
19. Sit back in Lazy Boy with drink and resolve to teach puppy "Sit"
and "Stay"….first thing in the morning.

Kom innom senere, takk for at du viste interesse !